Mini Maglev

In my experiment, my variables were two different track designs. To construct these tracks, I started out using cardboard. Unfortunately, the cardboard was too weak to hold the strength of these magnets. So I changed the cardboard to wood. In the first design, the track was basically a hollow three-dimensional rectangle that had it’s top cut off. There were straight lines of magnets on both the floor and the sides. Each magnet was about one millimeter away from the next. The train was basically a rectangle with a nose and magnets lining the sides and bottom.

Unfortunately, the magnets never stayed in place. The train would not levitate and attach to the sides of the track’s magnets. There was no way that this was going to work. Because the train did not levitate, this track failed.

However, the second track looked like a long “U” that had horizontal lines that pointed inwards. I had to create a base for the train so that it would stay on the track and not fall off. The track should be roughly three feet and the height should be roughly two inches tall. The wood should cover most of the track but leave enough space above the track so that the train fits snugly. There are two rows of magnets on the bottom of the track and on the bottom of the train. This distributed the force so that the train was more steady. The train was made out of a plastic ruler that I cut in half, glued together and added a block of wood in between, glued two pieces of Lego, and taped the edges of the train and the track with Scotch Tape to reduce friction. The total length of the train must be four and a half inches long. Align the inch-long block of wood to the very center of the two rulers and use hot glue to glue them into place. Then glue two pieces of Lego to the top so it looks like a train.

Home	In my experiment, my variables were two different track designs. To construct these tracks, I started out using cardboard. Unfortunately, the cardboard was too weak to hold the strength of these magnets. So I changed the cardboard to wood. In the first design, the track was basically a hollow three-dimensional rectangle that had it’s top cut off. There were straight lines of magnets on both the floor and the sides. Each magnet was about one millimeter away from the next. The train was basically a rectangle with a nose and magnets lining the sides and bottom. Unfortunately, the magnets never stayed in place. The train would not levitate and attach to the sides of the track’s magnets. There was no way that this was going to work. Because the train did not levitate, this track failed. However, the second track looked like a long “U” that had horizontal lines that pointed inwards. I had to create a base for the train so that it would stay on the track and not fall off. The track should be roughly three feet and the height should be roughly two inches tall. The wood should cover most of the track but leave enough space above the track so that the train fits snugly. There are two rows of magnets on the bottom of the track and on the bottom of the train. This distributed the force so that the train was more steady. The train was made out of a plastic ruler that I cut in half, glued together and added a block of wood in between, glued two pieces of Lego, and taped the edges of the train and the track with Scotch Tape to reduce friction. The total length of the train must be four and a half inches long. Align the inch-long block of wood to the very center of the two rulers and use hot glue to glue them into place. Then glue two pieces of Lego to the top so it looks like a train. The second track did work. The train was easily propelled and you could see it levitating. The resistance was easy to feel when you pushed down on it.
Purpose
Research
Hypothesis
Experiment
Analysis
Conclusion
Works Cited